
So that whole birthday thing threw me way off these past few days, but I don't want that to stop me from sharing details about the end of our Bali trip.
Our last day there was pretty crazily eventful. We took an 8:30am yoga class (again over the rice paddies - eee!) and then checked out the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, which was just down the road and basically a rainforesty space where monkeys are just walking around wild, kind of like those at the reservoir in Singapore. This was now my 3rd encounter with freewheeling monkeys - they were also at Ulu Watu, the temple where we saw the kecak dance. There's a big sign when you enter the place that urges you to NOT feed the monkeys, but of course just after that there were people offering bananas for sale. We didn't buy them. Leda was pretty stoked with the little guys and walked right up to them, but they kinda freaked me out a little bit. I think it's that they're so similar to humans but yet not - it's a bit unnerving. So we walked around, watched some cute little families interact, and then made our way to a temple that's inside the sanctuary. Just outside the temple was a squirrely little guy who we saw grab a banana out of a kid's hand. Then I saw him look at me (they say you shouldn't make eye contact but I so did). Before I knew it he ran over to me and started to reach for the water bottle in my hand. I dropped it before he could actually reach the thing and he toted it off to a corner where he began to try to eat it. He managed to somehow open it, and water poured out. If he had grabbed it, opened it and drank out of it I think I would have run screaming.
After we left the Monkey Sanctuary we walked back to our hotel, showered, packed and checked out. We headed back to Buddha Bali, that great little organic cafe/store in Ubud. Leda wanted to stock up on some things that aren't at all available to her in Singapore. My Dad called me on Leda's phone, which was neat. It was really nice to hear his and Melissa's voices, have a little connection to home. After Buddha Bali we hit the market and HARD. There's a sign in Ubud on one of the buildings that says "shop til drop" and that was pretty much us. It's sensory overload in there, with different vendors every which way, all clamouring for you to check out their wares. The bargaining is so completely exhausting, because you must bargain for every single purchase. I wonder how many tourists go in there and just pay the price they're given. It was fun, but I was wiped out by the end of the day. We grabbed dinner at a little place near our hotel, and I'm ashamed to say that I actually had spaghetti and meatballs for my last meal in Bali. If I saw one more piece of meat on a stick I was going to seriously lose it.
We learned from our tour guide that there are two ways to say no in Indonesian: one that leaves room for negotiation and the other that's very firm. "Bukan" is the negotiable and "tidak" is the firm one. I didn't say tidak (was worried it might be rude or something) until the taxi ride to Ubud when we were approached in the car, for about the third or fourth time, by guys selling newspapers and trying to guess our nationality, shouting, "you french?" "australian?", etc. This one guy lingered when I was trying to talk to Leda about something (literally newspaper plastered against the car window), so finally I turned my head and shouted "tidak!!!!" and he BOLTED! Ha! Nice to know that actually works!
In Ubud every time we walked down the street there was a barrage of "taxi miss?" "taxi?" "transport?" offers, shouted at us by mostly shady characters just sitting by their cars (I started saying tidak to them too). We had about three shady taxi experiences in Ubud, so we grew wary and weary! On the last day though, we were trying to figure out how we'd get to the airport without getting swindled, and were approached by a guy who didn't seem to give off a shady vibe at all, but actually seemed really nice. Leda talked to him for a bit (she's the master negotiator, don't forget) and he agreed to take us to the airport that night. He actually seemed really excited. The ride to the airport was actually entertaining because this guy, as it turns out, is totally into the kecak dance in a huge way and when we told him we'd seen it, he launched into the "chuck-chuck-chuck"'s and pretty soon we were all chanting/singing. Total white girl moment but it was awesome. Nice way to end the trip.
My birthday sadness yesterday was mitigated a bit by a trip to Leda's reflexology place in Singapore - just near her apartment - where I not only had an amazing foot massage but also a 30-minute back massage. Come on, it had been a week since my last one. I was due! Last night Leda and her friend Lisa took me out for a yummy meal of moules frites (moules frites in Singapore!) at this place on the river, and the waitresses even brought 3 cupcakes out with candles and they all sang - awww. It was really lovely and a nice way to end things in birthdayland. I'm sort of relieved it's all over now. Onward!
Tomorrow evening we fly to Ko Samui. It's only an hour and a half flight, so that should hopefully be easy. I've been reading the tour book and I'm a little worried about trying to even say please, thank you and good morning in Thai because of all the crazy inflections, but we'll see. We were laughed at aplenty in Bali for our Indonesian so that won't be anything new - although I'm proud to say that more than a few times we were told that our accent was very good, so maybe we improved. Or maybe those people were just being nice.
I think I'll definitely be ready to come home next week but it's been an amazing trip